Woodworking Jigs & Things
Garbage Can Cyclone Dust Collector
These are the parts I had to buy from
the local Ace Hardware. One 8 to 6"
reducer, some different sized pipe
insulation and a 3" to 10" rubber roof
Jack
The lid for the two stage garbage can
collector I had. A 55 gallon plastic drum
and a garbage can. I used the blue
can because it was smooth (no ridges
on the sides) and it already had a
slight cone shape to it.
Because the lid was larger than the
can I used, a piece of 2" pipe insulation
worked great as a sealing gasket
between the lid and the can. A piece
of duct tape was used to join it.
Next I took my jigsaw and cut an 8"
hole .
I didn't get a picture of it, but take a
pair of tin snips and cut about 1" deep
slots all the way around the 8" side of
reducer approx. 3/4" wide. Bend about
5 of them out away from the opening
(at a 90) Push the reducer in to the
can tight to the 5 tabs and bend the
remaining over on the inside.
I had a role of 18" galvanized flashing
laying around so I cut it into 12"
pieces. I needed 5 of them. On the 12"
end cut a convex, start at 3/4", You
may have to adjust according to the
size of the can.
Lap the sheet metal in the opposite
direction of the wind your lid will
generate and use duct tape to hold it
in place till you form your cone.
I used Liquid Nails between the sheets
and sealed it with duct tape to allow it
to dry. Use some cheap caulk on the
reducer to seal.
I made a platform out of scraps and
1/2" plywood and threw on some old
chair casters that came from the dump.
(I can never pass up free wheels).
I screwed 4- 2x2s on the corners and
another piece of 1/2"plywood with an
8 1/2" hole.
Next cut the boot rubber to accept the 6" side of the reducer (be sure to cut the right ring. It
will fit the reducer very tight. Don't use a knife! Too easy to slip. I used right handed tin
snips. Cut a piece of plywood or MFD an inch or so bigger than your collector and cut a hole
the size of the largest ring in the boot. Caulk the boot flash and screw it over the hole with
3/4 screws. Place the can on the raised shelf and attach the boot to the reducer with a 6"
worm clamp. This could take an extra set of hands to hold the lid and stretch the rubber.
Here is where I ran into a little trouble. The top can needs to be held down when you raise
the lower lid. I just ran two wires from the handles of the can to the shelf to hold it in place.
Next shim your collector off the platform till the lid fits snug
to the collector gasket (the pipe insulation). The rubber will
allow you to raise the lid a couple of inches off the collector
to empty it. I found no need to lock or in any way hold
down the two lids. The vacuum seals itself. That insulation
forms a great seal. Hook up your hoses and create some
dust.
A couple of add ons. I added two hooks on opposite sides
of the collector lid under the shelf to hold it up when it is
emptied. Also I put a three sided stop so the collector has a
guide to line up right when it is slid back in.
Guys, It's not pretty and it will never have any market
value, but it works so much better than I ever expected it
would. When I get some time I will take it apart and make it
purdy. Reed
